Carnation Walling - Ceiling Beams
Implement the wood beams onto which the flooring block will sit.
Implement ceiling beams
The reason this is done earlier than you might expect is that we want to get to a rain-proof enclosure as soon as possible so it is more pleasant to work and the materials stay dry.
The 12" thick EPS blocks that form the concrete flooring are supported by 10.5 inch tall wood beams that are in turn supported by 2x6 lumber (1.5" x 5.5"). The 2x6s are supported by a horizontal 2x8 baton that attaches at the top of the vertical 2x4 batons on the north and south walls. There are also some 2x4 props that sit on the end of the angle bracing 2x4s that are nailed face-on to the concrete slab. The vertical 2x4s are held vertical using 45 degree 2x4 pieces from the edge-on angled bracing bases. Shims are used under the props to level the floor/ceiling.
If you have internal wooden walls you can implement the studding for these early and incorporate them into the mechanism for supporting the floor during the wet concrete pour.
Make 2x8 batons
These may have already been made earlier when making the other horizontal bracing.
You want these to be as long as possible so that not many vertical 2x4 batons are needed to support them. The hole drilling pattern is as per the 2x4 horizontal braces. The holes are 5-1/2" from the top edge.
They are only needed for the north and south walls and the internal walls that separate off the porticos. (On the potting shed they are on the short walls.)
Here's the 8" cavity version...
<Update drawing to use 1" from end holes>
And here's the 12" cavity version...
<Update drawing to use 1" from end holes>
The actual lengths depend on the length of the wall section so shorten the lengths in 1 foot increments as required (cutting 6" from hole positions).
Here is the special short beam for the very simple potting shed building (described above). It uses one beam to go the complete width of the building even though that means the hole pattern changes as it crosses the halfway point...
<Update drawing to use 1" from end holes>
For large buildings a center piece to span the building center discontinuity is required.
Fit horizontal 2x8 at the wall
The 2x8 on the north and south walls (run east-west) are for supporting the 2x6s that then support the ceiling beams. 2x8s are also used on the east and west (run north-south) walls so that with 2x6 padding they support the ends of the ceiling beams.
Add a few vertical 2x4 batons on the north and south walls in their final position, but not too many or they will get in the way of the rebar. Do not put them anywhere that will interfere with the windows and doors. Where possible put the vertical 2x4 batons in the wall corners. Attach the horizontal 2x8s at the top of the vertical 2x4 batons using the X'3" holes and 3/8" threaded rod wall ties. Also add the 2x8 horizontal beams on both sides of the internal walls.
Frame full height internal walls
Where there are internal walls, these can be framed now in order to reduce the number of ceiling support 2x6s required (north south internal walls) and the number of props required (east west internal walls).
In the case of my basement the height of the top of the top plate of the internal wall from the slab design height is as follows:
For walls that go north south: 13' 8-1/2" + 5-1/2" = 14'2". This takes it to the height to the bottom of the east west ceiling beams.
For walls that go east west: 13' 8-1/2". The last bit of the internal wall height will get filled in later as part of the internal finishing process.
Note that the "slab design height" is actually determined by the point on the uneven concrete height adjacent to the outer concrete walls that is the highest. This point was established when building the polystyrene walls. You can indicate the "slab design height" by setting the self leveling laser at the height of the a selected set of wall tie holes and measuring from there. What actually matters is the height of the top of the internal wall so it is this that needs to be measured relative to the laser. You may need to vary the internal wall stud lengths and/or use shims to accurately achieve the required internal wall height.
Where there is a designed in hole in a concrete internal wall that is actually going to be filled in by wooden internal walling then this internal wall can also be framed at this time as it will be used to support the wet concrete of the wall.
Make 2x4 ceiling props
Make the long 2x4 props that will support the 2x6s. If you don't have 2x4s that are that long then use two pieces and join them.
<Check length shown in drawing>
Make the angled 2x4s that hold the props vertical.
Fit a metal Simpson tie (beam above) to the top of the prop.
Fit the props
The prop positions are shown on the CAD drawing.
Use 1.5" x 1.5" x 3.5" blocks at the bottom on both sides of the prop so that the shims can be kept in place.
Screw the blocks onto the nailed down boards, but do not yet screw the blocks to the vertical props.
At the center of the building there is probably not a 2x4 for the angled bracing so you will need to put a 1' length of 2x4 to the slab under where the prop will be.
Use shims under the vertical props to adjust the height to get everything level. As for the internal wooden walls, use the self leveling laser to indicate the accurate height above the "slab design height". You will need to fine tweak the shims once the rest of the floor structure is in place (and things have settled).
If there is a high spot on the concrete slab that is higher than any high points adjacent to the outer concrete walls then you may need to trim a bit off the length of the prop. If in doubt, trim it to be overly short and then shim it up as needed.
Install the vertical props together with their angle pieces. Do not yet screw the props at the bottom. You need a prop about every 4 or 6 feet along the wall and every 8 feet in the other dimension.
Implement a platform of 2x6s supported by 2x4s
The job of the 2x6s is to spread out the function of the props that come up from the floor. They also handle the fact that there are openings in the floor (eg for stairs).
Make the 2x6 horizontal beams. The 2x6 beams only go North-South on the building. The length is variable to suit the building. They don't need to be the full length of the span as long as they span multiple props. No pre-drilling of the 2x6s is required because small wood blocks will be screwed on the top edge later to constrain the beams above. This method avoids leaving screw hole marks in the finished beams.
You DO want the beams (and their associated props) over the floor cutout areas.
Fix the 2x6 lumber on top by slotting into the metal Simpson tie and once the prop is vertical add some 1-1/4" screws. At the wall end, the 2x6 needs to be (for an 8" cavity wall) 8-3/4" from the inside edge of the EPS. For a 12" cavity it is 1' 0-3/4". For an internal wall there is no EPS but the distance from the end of one beam to the end of another on the other side is 9-1/2".
As a further strengthening mechanism if it is felt necessary you can add short lengths of 2x6 between the 2x6 beams to stop them twisting. The length of these is 1' 10-1/2" and they are screwed on offset from each other.
The following shows the horizontal 2x6s from end on (for an example very simple building) (and it is overly supported)...
The number of 2x6 beams and the distance between them depends on a judgment about how much support the ceiling beams above require.
Mark beam positions on top edge of 2x6s
From your CAD drawings, draw marks to show where the beams should cross the 2x6s.
Make 10.5" floor beams
These beams will go into the slots in the EPS Carnation Flooring blocks. They go East-West on the building. They are 10.5" tall and 3" wide formed from two beams that are 5.5" tall and 3" wide. After gluing the beams they are trimmed on a table saw to 10.5". The reason it is ok to use two 5.5" beams is that only the bottom 5.5" of the 10.5" beam will be visible in the finished ceiling. I use doug-fir timber cut on my saw mill for the bottom of the beam. The timber is sawn fresh from the tree so the beam will shrink in width and height as it dries. On the sawmill the beam is cut to be 3+" width and 5-1/2+" where the plus denotes an extra 1/16th of an inch. After drying the expectation is that the beam will be about 3-" and 5-1/2-" where the minus denotes a 1/16". The overall height of the formed 11" tall beam will be about 10-7/8" (or even 10-3/4"). The glued beam is then cut on a table saw to be 10.5" (cutting the paired purchased 2x6s).
(Alternatively they can consist of a 3" wide piece of 2-by at the top and a 9-1/2" beam below. The 9-1/2" beam can be 2-by lumber or can be a TJI-110 I-beam. You can even make the 9-1/2" beam from 8" lumber with a trimmed 2x4 screwed on the bottom. Cut the 3" x 1" lumber. Screw it to the 9.5" beams.)
If using 2-by lumber then it will be necessary to join lengths of lumber to get the required span length. That is the reason that the slot in the Carnation Flooring profile EPS is 3" wide (2 x 1.5"). Joined pieces are offset either side of the available 3".
As the 10.5" beams stay in place for ever and often are visible, I paint them with clear wood protection . Apply with plenty of ventilation to get rid of the VOCs, but it does not contain particularly bad ingredients so it is ok to use internally.
Cut the beams so they do not go over the floor openings. They stop 7.5" from the place the concrete stops. Use your CAD drawings to accurately know all the lengths. For my basement here are the lengths and quantilies...
17' 11-5/8" 4
17' 2-1/2" 9
16" 10-1/2" 21
15' 5-5/8" 1
10' 3-3/4" 3
Install 10.5" floor beams
The beams go East-West. They extend all the way to the plywood (face of the 1/2 construction plywood closest to the inside of the building). They over-lap the vertical 2x4 batons (and the 2x8 horizontal batons) and are supported by them. Their length comes from the house CAD drawing. The position of the beams is indicated by the marks on the top edge of the 2x6s. As needed to take out warp in the beams, screw on 1.5" wood blocks to the top edge of the 2x6s.
You do not want the beams over the floor cutout areas.
Getting the floor square
To get the floor square use twisted galvanized wire across the longest diagonal between screws in the corner and then twist the wire.
Getting the floor level
Adjust the shims under the props as necessary to get the height just right to level the floor. Use a crowbar under the prop to lift it up a bit to get the shim in. Hopefully not, but it may be necessary to add some shims or make other adjustments where the floor beams meet the wall.