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Carnation Walling - Inner Plywood

Star Add the two layers of plywood on the inside of the wall to form that side of the concrete.

Fit plywood and inner vertical batons

A nice thing about not adding the plywood until the last step is that it avoids it getting wet from rain.

Cut thin plywood

The dimensions come from the elevation CAD drawing.  You need to cut for the window and door openings.

Make jigs for thin plywood

The sizes are as per the CAD drawings.

Even though the thin plywood equates to the 6" EPS, it is necessary to use different jigs because the corner lengths are different.  Drill with 3/8" holes but you may need to increase the hole size slightly with a hand held drill or rat-tail rasp as you add the sheets to get them to go on.

The jigs are each made from a lattice of 2x4s are used to provide a template for drilling the holes.

The bottom left of the jig exactly lines up over the 8'x4' thin plywood sheet.  The bottom left is the reference.  Bits of L shaped cut-down-the-middle 2x4 hang over the edge at the bottom and left and are used to accurately position the plywood template over the EPS sheet.

Only drill holes for the primary vertical batons.

The jigs (and sheet cut sizes) required are...

<Update drawings to make it 4" from the bottom>

IfcThinPlyCornerOverlap8in 

IfcThinPlyCornerOverlap12in 

IfcThinPlyCornerUnderlap8in 

IfcThinPlyCornerUnderlap12in 

IfcThinPlyNonCorner 

For a sheet that rests on the slab, the wall tie hole distances from the bottom of the sheet will be...
4", 9", 1'9", 2'9", 3'9" .  To drill the 4" row of holes use the row of holes at the bottom of the jig (light blue).

For other sheets up the wall, the wall tie hole distances from the bottom of the sheet will be...
9", 1'9", 2'9", 3'9"

The distance from the edge needs to allow for the corner overlap (either an under-lap or an over-lap).
For the corner pieces the first column of wall tie holes are XX from the edge for an under-lap piece and XX for an over-lap piece.  They are then 2 foot between columns of holes for the rest of the sheet.

For non-corner pieces the first column of wall tie holes are 1 inch from the edge and then every 2 foot after that.

For 12" cavity corner pieces the first column of holes is shifted by 4".  Use the optional column of holes for drilling these (brown).

The X'3" holes are also provided but are typically covered in tape.  They are only used above and below window openings (and at the bottom of sheets that go directly on the slab). 

 

Drill thin plywood

Use a 3/8" drill.

 

Cut thick plywood

The dimensions come from the elevation CAD drawing.  You need to also cut for the window and door openings.

 

Make jigs for thick plywood

Jigs, each made from a lattice of 2x4s, are used to provide a template for drilling the holes.

The jig exactly lines up over the 8'x4' thick plywood sheet.  The bottom left is the reference.  Bits of 2x4 hang over the edge at the bottom and left and are used to accurately position the plywood template over the thick plywood sheet.

Not all the sheets need jigs because not all the sheets have holes.  The 2' high sheets can use the same jigs as the 4' high version.

The jigs (and cut sheet sizes) required are...

<Update drawings to make it 4" at bottom>

IfcThickPlyCornerOverlap8in 

IfcThickPlyCornerOverlap12in 

IfcThickPlyCornerUnderlap8in 

IfcThickPlyCornerUnderlap12in 

IfcThickPlyNonCorner 

For a (2 foot high) sheet that rests on the slab, the hole distances from the bottom of the sheet will be...
4", 9", 1'9".  Use the bottom row of holes (light blue) for drilling the 4" above bottom holes.

For other sheets (4 foot high) up the wall, the hole distances from the bottom of the sheet will be...
9", 1'9", 2'9", 3'9"

For the corner pieces the first column of wall tie holes are XX from the edge for an under-lap piece (for an 8" cavity).  They are then 2' between columns of holes for the rest of the sheet.

In the case of a 12" cavity the first column of holes are offset by 4".  For an 8" cavity these holes are covered in tape.  For a 12" cavity the normal first column of holes are temporarily covered in tape.

The X'3" positions are provided but are typically covered with tape.

For non-corner pieces the first column of holes are 1 inch from the edge and then every 2 foot after that.

 

Cut and drill thick plywood

Use a 3/8" drill.

 

Drill holes for internal window shutters

These are threaded 1/2" rod with nuts and washers.  The ones for the shutters go through both sheets of plywood.

Window Internal Shutters 12in 

WindowInternalShutters8in 

It is rare for you to want internal shutters (perhaps never), but it is worth having bolts available just in case you ever need to fit security shutters to leave the house unoccupied for a long period of time.  Security shutters are a single piece of steel sheet fitted right across the full window width.

 

Remove vertical 2x4 batons

Even though the batons were fitted in their final position they need to be removed to fit the two layers of plywood.  If everything is thoroughly tied together with 65lb cable ties the wall ties should stay in their right locations.

 

Install thin plywood

Fitting the plywood with all the wall ties going through the holes is a bit fiddly.  The ties should be in about the right locations, but you may need to use a grabber tool or a stick with a hook cut in the end to get them in the hole.  You can push the ties outwards in the wall and then pull them back one at a time to get them through the hole.

Remote grabber tool  Remote grabber tool

 

Install thick plywood

Fitting this over the wall ties is a little easier because the thin plywood is already holding the ties in the correct positions.

 

Re-fit vertical 2x4 batons

These can now be fitted for the last time in their final locations.  As before use the appropriate thickness shim under the vertical batons.

Install all the horizontal bracing onto the ends of the appropriate threaded rod wall ties.

Add steel washers and steel 3/8" nuts and do them up using a torque wrench set to a torque of XXX.  Using the same torque for each wall tie rod aims to avoid the tubes and washers sinking into the EPS different amounts that could cause the wall to be wavy.

Torque wrench  Torque wrench

Screw from the kicker boards into the bottom of the vertical 2x4 batons using two Kreg screws.

 

Strengthen the Carnation Flooring ceiling

The act of adding all the vertical 2x4 batons in their correct positions will strengthen the lattice of beams that support the floor above.  It should then be possible to walk on the floor and this is in fact necessary when pouring the concrete.

 

Add additional bracing and fillers

This is all about thinking where the most wet concrete pressure will be exerted and making sure everything is properly braced to withstand that pressure.

Horizontals at the bottom

Fit horizontal bracing at the bottom of the walls using the 4" from the bottom holes.

Spacers between horizontal batons and plywood

This is particularly needed for the horizontal bracing that sits on the kicker boards.

Spacers of 2x4 or 2x6 are used on the inside to fill that gap where there is no vertical bracing.  They go up against the kicker plank. Typically the spacer bits are 1'8-7/16" long.  The spacer pieces will fit between the vertical bracing pieces that are every 24".  Near the window openings, different length spacer pieces will be needed to place vertical bracing either side of the window opening.  The spacer pieces do not need to be nailed down.  The spacers will extend 5.5" up the wall, ie will stand on edge.

Bottom 2x6s for ICF bracing (Picture needs updating)

Bottom ICF bracing complete (Picture needs updating)

 

External corner bracing

This is horizontal bracing and has filler 2x6 pieces between it and the EPS.

 

Bracing around windows

On each side of a window (or door) opening it is necessary to have bracing.  The cut EPS will be weak in this area so needs good bracing.  The bracing also is used to help support the weight  of the window bucking.

 

 

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